How to Hike a Volcano, Acquire a Dutch Travel Family and Make Friends with a Dog - Hiking the Pacaya Volcano

With our feet and bodies now better prepared for the trek up the volcano, we relaxed in the lobby of the hostel awaiting our bus. 

When the bus arrived we climbed on board and sat near the front. Taking off, we arrived at another hotel to pick up more people. Onto the bus climbed a group of about 14 people along with a guide... who looked a bit put out that we were on the bus. She said something to the driver, he shrugged, said something back. Then she called someone on her phone and started asking questions. Given that this whole exchange happened in Spanish, I had no idea what was going on.  The bus started driving while she attempted to deal with whatever was causing her grief. 

Eventually it seemed to be sorted out and she told the group that she was sorry, this was supposed to be a PRIVATE tour, she didn't know why WE were on the bus, but it would get figured out when we arrived at the volcano. Then she turned to Meg and I, apologized for seeming so rude, but hopefully we understood. We just smiled, said all we did was get on the bus that came for us. Then the bus stopped, the guide got off, and Meg and I looked at each other confused.

Ready to hike the volcano

When we arrived at the starting point of the volcano trek it became obvious that we too would end up with a private tour of the volcano, as there were no other groups awaiting the climb. We'd heard stories of people being robbed etc on the hill, especially in the evening when it got dark, and so we were a bit apprehensive about how to proceed. Meg and I got off the bus and waiting outside while the other passengers remained on the bus. Words were exchanged and then one of them spoke up to say they really didn't care if they had a "private tour", and would much prefer knowing that we were safe, so would we care to join their group?

Of course we would. So off we went. 

Little boys were selling walking sticks and there was a team of horses awaiting us should we decide we are too out of shape to continue and need a lift. Of course at a price. 150Q up and 150Q down. We would be fine to walk. 

The trek started out fairly simple, a low incline and relatively well packed ground. However, as we made it up the hill it became progressively more difficult. I've never done it, but I can liken the experience to climbing up a massive sand dune. The volcanic rock under our feet was soft and slippery, crumbling under each step. Unless you walked along the side where the small amounts of grass were growing, each step resulted in your foot sliding back about half as far. 

Eventually we made it past the "green" part of the volcano and to the point where the lava had accumulated after the most recent explosion (about a year and a half ago). Here the walking became a bit more treacherous (volcanic rock is extremely sharp and rough) but the end was in sight! An hour and 25 min after we first started, we reached the top!

Our guide lead us to a rest spot that was right beside a deep crevice. It's been said that the air/rock is hot enough to cook an egg, and a few of the Dutch travellers had brought one along to try it out. The guide reached in, stuck it in one of the cracks and left it to cook. From there he showed us a spot where we could climb down inside the rock and feel the warmth. A small cave with a crack to the outside, it was a lot like a sauna - warm, somehow dry but humid at the same time, and a bit stuffy. 

Probably the best part, however, was the friend we made at the top of the volcano. 

An adorable little dog, living all by herself on this volcano, greeted us when we arrived. Incredibly friendly, she took to me (and likely the food in my pocket). Despite the fact that she didn't have any owners, and if she did they wouldn't speak English, she sat when I told her to and even shook a paw. 

I wanted to keep her. The authorities, however, would have an issue with this I'm sure, so I had to say goodbye and leave her there all by herself. 

Back down the volcano we went, the loose terrain and the downward slope speeding up our descent. 

A realization that would later become even more obvious, I am apparently part billy goat, as I made my way down the hill in about 45 min, while Meg opted to be a bit more cautious. 

We waited for our bus and when it arrived we boarded, found a seat at the back and settled in for the dark drive back. 

Just the clothes on my back and camera around my neck - Antigua, Guatemala

If you're just now following along, here's the super fast back story: My cousin asked if I was going to be doing any trips this summer, and would I like her to come with me. I told her I was considering making my way from Guatemala to Mexico with Bamba Experience, a company that helps you book your transfers between places and gives you free inclusions. She said she'd love the adventure and so off we went. And believe me, it was an adventure.

Our itinerary was as follows: Antigua - Lanquin - Flores/Tikal - Belize Caye Caulker - Tulum - Cancun.

On July 24th we boarded the plane in Toronto and landed in Guatemala City (after a brief stop in Miami) around 7pm, ready for an adventure. Our plan was to meet our transfer to take us to the hostel in Antigua, get a drink and some sleep, explore the city and then get ready to do our first included tour - hiking the Pacaya Volcano located just outside of the city. 

As we all know, travel doesn't always go as planned, and this trip was no exception. When we went to pick up our luggage we discovered that it had apparently decided that Miami was a better place to stay and hadn't made it onto the plane. We reported the situation and were told that it would arrive sometime the next day, but no specific time was given. We were told to call the airport in the morning and they would let us know what was going on. 

This wasn't that big of a deal, because people's luggage gets delayed all the time. The problem, however was that pesky volcano we were planning on hiking. Neither of us had thought this far ahead and were wearing completely inadequate footwear, had no warm clothes to speak of and were generally unprepared. However, we decided that there wasn't much point in stressing over it and we'd figure out a solution. 

This is what I had to wear. Not exactly ideal.

We made it to the hostel, checked in and had a beer. Made the plan to call the airport in the morning and track down our stuff, wander the town and perhaps find some cheap but reasonable footwear, and grab a bit to eat before meeting the group for the volcano trip. Crawled into bed (in our clothes, of course) and fell asleep. 

Our hostel in Antigua upon arrival

The next morning we woke up early. Breakfast was included at the hostel, so we indulged in that. It was amazing. One bite and I was in love with the food in Guatemala.  And the coffee... oh my. Delicious. Much better than my coffee experiences in Peru (they seem to export amazing coffee and keep none of it for themselves!). 

Huevos, tortillas, beans, tomatoes ... so good!

After filling up on breakfast and calling the airport to ask about our bags (we were told they would arrive sometime that afternoon) we ventured out into the streets. The city immediately made me think of Cuzco, though the streets were in a bit rougher shape. As we wandered in what seemed to be the direction of the town square, we saw a group of children dressed for what looked like prom. The closer we got to the square, the more elaborately people seemed to be dressed, and the more of a buzz there seemed to be in the air.

We quickly realized that there was a celebration of sorts about to take place. Having nothing else we needed to do (besides find some shoes and perhaps warmer clothing for the night air at the volcano) we found a spot to sit along the street. Later we learned we happened to arrive the day of the town fair and there was about to be a parade. 

I'm not usually one for parades. I generally find them boring. However, this one was enthralling. Maybe it was the not knowing WHY it was happening, maybe it was just the excitement in the air, but I was amazed. We sat along the street with the locals for almost an hour, watching marching bands, dance troupes, and kids dressed as local landmarks, cartoon characters and more. 

Our bus was due to pick us up at 2pm  for the trip to the volcano. We glanced at our map and started off in the direction of the market that the girl at the hostel had circled for us. By this time breakfast had started wear off so we stopped for a bite to eat and something to drink right by the market. 

Sandwiches and nachos. 

The mojito to which all others will be compared

Full of food we ventured into the market stalls. We walked around a bit hoping to find a good deal on some running shoes but ultimately decided to each spent about 20Q (equiv of about $3) on some knock-off Crocs (or Croc-offs, as they came to be called). Not really ideal for hiking, they were still more practical than the worn out flats I was wearing. Having been told that it got cold up in the volcano area, I also bought a wool sweater for about 60Q ($10). Becoming short on time we started to head back towards the hostel, stopping at a grocery store for some snacks for the hike. 

We'd joked that with our luck, if we bought shoes for the hike our bags would miraculously appear before the bus arrived to pick us up... which was exactly what happened. With about 2 min to spare before we had to get on the bus to Pacaya, our luggage showed up. We tossed our stuff in the room, grabbed our running shoes and went out to meet the driver to head to the volcano.... but that's a story for another day.