Candlelight Cave Tours, Massive Bruises, Vertical Climbs to Amazing Views - Semuc Champey and Lanquin Caves

We woke up early and ate breakfast at the restaurant at El Retiro before getting ready to join the group going to the caves and Semuc Champey. As was becoming the norm, given the vagueness of our Bamba tickets, there was a bit of confusion regarding what our included tour actually included. It was determined that we could go to both the caves and the crystalline pools. Fantastic!

The bus arrived and picked us up. And when I say "bus" I should specify that it was actually a pick up truck with a caged back not unlike what you would find to haul livestock around. And into the back like livestock we went.

We arrived at the entrance to the caves and walked a bit to get to a spot to leave our stuff. We were told to wear proper footwear, since flip flops weren't enough. Those that did only have flip flops had the option to have them tied on their feet so they could walk through the caves semi-protected. Thankfully, we'd purchased those Croc-off shoes a couple days before and they came in handy!

Before venturing through the caves we had the opportunity to swing from the rope swing into the rushing water. Not about to turn down a mildly dangerous event, I got in line and waited. Meg, given the fact that she can't hear, opted to hang back a bit and observe before making her decision to swing. The idea was the guy minding the swing would yell "JUMP" as the person on it reached the correct spot... however, when unable to hear Meg just had to somewhat count off until it was time to launch herself into the air. 

I went first - and survived. The current in the water was extremely fast and the minute I hit the water I was being swept away. Off to the side I swam, climbed out and took my camera from Meg so that she could go. She lined up, got to the swing and went for it... did a pretty good job of leaving the swing at an appropriate time, but landed slightly off kilter and broke the surface of the water with her thigh. She made it out of the water (thank goodness!) despite the minor injury (which would turn into one of the most horrible looking bruises I've ever seen as the week went on.) 

After the whole group had had a chance to swing (if they wanted) we trekked up the hill a little bit to the entrance of the cave. We were all given candles to light the way. The caves were full of water, sometimes deep, sometimes shallow. We had a few guides leading the way. 

Highlights of the cave were climbing UP a waterfall, while getting pounded by water, being at the front of the group (I always end up there.. I hate getting stuck behind people) and the guide asking me if I was afraid of jumping (Of course not) and him directing me to scale a wall in the caves and jump into the darkness (there was a deep pool below) and on the way back shooting through a rushing water hole into the darkness below. 

We made our way back out of the cave after about an hour and a bit of adventuring. Not ready to end the adventure we were given tubes and shown the path to the spot to climb aboard before floating downstream. 

Meg and I floated downstream, getting completely different views from the water than from on the shore.

After we got off the tubes the group gathered again and walked to the entrance to Semuc Champey. We had lunch (hosted to us by a tiny park-side stall) and then headed into the park. The walk to the crystalline pools wasn't too long and soon we were greeted with a gorgeous view.

The water was warm and absolutely gorgeous. Limestone pools like stairs along the river, there were little waterfalls and islands to explore. Not long after we'd been in the water I discovered something that was somewhat familiar to me - the nibbly little teeth of Dr. Fish!

We swam around, enjoyed the water and generally just relaxed for a while. Then it was time for our hike. What!? Hike!? Again?

The guide lead the group up the side of the mountain, about a kilometer straight up along a pathway (with stairs etc built in, thank god) that was far more exhausting than even the hardest parts of the trek through the jungle in Thailand or up the volcano two days prior. As always, I walked too fast and wore myself out. Each time we thought we were there we turned a corner to see even more vertical climb to go. It only took about half an hour but it was the most excruciating half hour I've experienced in a long time.

The end result, however, was completely worth it:

We all took turns staring over the platform that had been built to allow us to get a look at the pools from above. Snapped some photos (which really don't accurately show the heights to which we'd climbed) and then started our descent. 

Which required us to go UP first. What!? Why more up!? 

I was tired of up. 

However, eventually the path started to go in a downward fashion. Back to my billy-goat tendencies, I was making my way down the hill at a fast pace while Meg was left behind. Granted, her leg was pretty sore from the swing incident earlier. 

We made it down, injury free, and back onto the bus, er truck, and back to the hostel. Showers all around, warm and dry clothes and a massive dinner (this time Meg and I shared a buffet dinner) and a few drinks before bed. 

Off to Flores in the morning!

Night Market and Fish Spas

Every Sunday in Chiang Mai they close off Ratchemonden (sp?) street and it becomes a massive market. The street itself runs the length of the old city and becomes a never ending stretch of food vendors, craftmakers and buskers.

We’d heard that the market was worth checking out so we made sure to leave some time to do it. As we left the cooking school we wandered in the direction of the street and saw that people were just getting started setting up. Even though there wasn’t even the slightest possibility of eating anything we looked at the food vendors and decided that once our stomachs were finally ready to enjoy some more food we would definitely be coming back for dinner.

We wandered along the streets a bit before we heard a familiar sound – thunder. We’d become accustomed to the daily storms that seemed to hit Chiang Mai, usually between 5 and 7 every day so we thought it wise to head back to the hostel and chill out a bit while it rained.  We made it back just before the rain started coming down, and we were glad that we had chosen to come back – it was coming down hard.  It only rained for about an hour, but it was enough to take some of the heat out of the air and give us a chance to rest.

We left the hostel again to go back to Ratchemonden street, which we realized was actually very close to where we were staying. I was a bit grumpy, maybe from the heat, maybe from being up so early, maybe just because sometimes even though you’re having a great time you are still grumpy, and was dragging my feet slightly. As we walked we passed Dr. Fish, a fish spa that was on our usual route from where we were staying. (An aside – I found it extremely frustrating to read maps in Thailand because the spellings of the streets in English is completely arbitrary and changes from intersection to intersection and almost NEVER matches the map, or guidebook or GPS. Infact the maps and guidebooks and GPS never agree on spelling either. So landmarks, such as “FISH DOCTOR!” became the easiest way to navigate around).

Anyway, we’d joked a few times walking past that we should get a fish spa. If you’re unfamiliar with the concept I will elaborate: you stick your feet in a container filled with fish who then come and eat the dead skin off your feet. I’m not kidding. These aren’t even very exciting fish – totally your usual run of the mill garden variety pleckos that you can get at any pet store to clean your fish tank. 

Ren, sensing my discontent but not really sure what to do to fix it (nothing he could have done, really, but props to him for trying) suggested we should all get fish spas. And he’d treat me. I was a bit nervous but the whole trip had taken on the motto of “We’re doin’ it!” which meant we were doing just about anything you could do. So we did it. The fact that they had beers available was a definite bonus – who can say no to beers and fish spas?!

I stuck my feet in first. And almost yanked them back out. It was the most ridiculous feeling thing I have ever experienced. Within seconds of me putting my feet in the fish swarmed my toes and started chewing away. And it tickled. A LOT. I started to laugh. Uncontrollably. With tears streaming down my face. But I kept my feet in there and finally grew accustomed to the feeling of little fish chewing on my feet. Almost came to enjoy it, except for when one would find a super sensitive spot between my toes that had never been touched before.  Eric finally decided to join in the fun after Ren and I both were laughing super hard, and the three of us enjoyed our beers and talked about how ridiculous the whole thing was.

When our time was up – about 25 min later, my feet felt .. interesting. I would say they were more smooth than before – they at least felt kinda like it. And along with the dead skin my bad mood was gone.

Feet freshly fished, we made our way into the market. Still not totally starving but wanting to take advantage of all the interesting foods, we took turns buying random things on a stick and sharing them.  I couldn’t tell you all the things we tried, but if they came on sticks or could be eaten with sticks I’m sure we gave them a go.

We saw a lot of amazing things that night – people playing local music, singing etc, but I think the most amazing thing we happened upon was a flower burning festival at one of the wats. People were lined up buying flowers to burn as offerings to Buddha. In the middle of the courtyard was a massive shrine with flowers everywhere, and off to the side was a stage with people (children, mostly) performing. The energy in the air was electric – even if you weren’t religious or spiritual it was an amazing thing to witness.

Eventually we had to head back to the hostel to grab our things and take off to the airport. It was getting late, at least 9pm, and our flight was at 11. It was a late flight, but on the upside we would soon be in Phuket – gateway to Koh Phi Phi!!